Wearing Your Suit Right: The Do’s and The Don'ts
Harvey Specter, Don Draper and James Bond. What do they all have in common other than good looks and personalities that shine?
A well fitted suit, one that defines what they do and sometimes more than what they are! No one can deny the power of what you wear but sometimes a few cardinal sins can make that statement piece look staid, shapeless or simply not for your body type.
We got together with CYC The Custom Shop, the finest bespoke tailors in Singapore who have dressed many a royalty, esteemed political leaders and trend setting A-listers, to spill the beans on how to wear that suit with aplomb!
Those little speckles of utility on your suit, serve a higher purpose too. They can define the look you are going for - casual or formal. One buttoned jackets are generally seen as too casual and relaxed so keep them for slightly informal occasions. For a formal look, go for at least two buttons. Three buttoned suit jackets are generally recommended for taller men as they have more length and can use that extra button to fasten the jacket.
The one big rule to never forget is unbuttoning your suit jacket every time you sit. This will ensure that the jacket does not stretch owing to the pressure on the buttons and you will feel a lot more comfortable as well!
Most men think that hemmed pants make a suit. Jacket sleeves are equally important and need to be tailored to size. The general rule is to make sure the jacket sleeve ends ½ inch above your shirt sleeve. Don't forget to streamline the jacket around the bicep area too as sloppy arms can make you look dorky!
Don't even get us started on the horror that is an extra long jacket! With each individual comes a different height and torso length and these are important details to make sure you get a bespoke fit for your body type. A common method to get your jacket length right is the cupping method. If you are able to cup your fingers at the end of the jacket when your arms are hanging, all is well.
However, this rule may or may not hold true for different arm lengths, and you could be left with short or too long jackets. The simplest solution here is to go to a tailoring service like CYC The Custom Shop, that can measure you properly and advise you on all your suiting needs. A little effort goes a long way in making sure you have that polished look!
The Length of that Trouser
Flashing those Happy Socks through your pants is fashionable but a little too short and you could ruin your entire look. Pants should ideally be long enough to hit just the top of your shoes, longer than that can be baggy and unsophisticated. Always remember to try on your pants with the right shoes as that will make all the difference to your fitting.
The Shirt is as important
Few understand the value of a truly well fitted, tailored shirt. Most men actually buy shirts that are too big and eventually start to bunch once tucked in. If you can fit more than one finger between the collar and neck, it's big; perhaps too big. Slim-cut shirts are your best bet as they help work with the fit of your jacket and make sure you look well tailored through and through.
The shirt sleeve too is a detail you can’t afford to ignore. Just half an inch of the sleeve showing at the end of the jacket sleeve is essential to complete that look. If that doesn't happen, either your jacket sleeve is too long or your shirt sleeve too short.
The Colour of your Suit, Shoes and Belt
A matter of personal choice, do keep in mind that black and pin stripes aren't the only versions of suits to wear. For daytime dressing, navy and charcoal are great options to add to your wardrobe. These colours are neutral and you will rarely ever find a shirt that does not match.
Shoes make an important statement and help compliment your choice of suit. Black on black is a safe but really boring option to have. Stark contrasts are in, and as a general rule brown always works well with navy. To push the envelope further you can try different coloured laces on leather brogues - just don't go all fluorescent on us!
Finally the colour of your belt, should be the same or almost the same colour as your shoes. Large buckled or small, make sure the width of the belt works well for the trousers loops or it will crease and no matter how expensive, the belt will end up looking tacky.
A great pocket square can take years off a boring suit, and so could a tie. But add a pocket watch to the mix and you are in the territory of trying too hard!
Accessorize but don't go overboard. A maximum of two accessories can help build that outfit immensely and they don't even have to be loud or fancy. A simple white pocket square too can speak volumes - much like Don Draper from Mad Men!
For more details on how to get yourself a well tailored suit, visit CYC The Custom Shop. CYC The Custom Shop was established in 1935 and was the first to offer custom-tailored shirts in Singapore. CYC’s trademark - perfectly fused collars has led to the initials “CYC” to be associated with quality and fine craftsmanship. CYC The Custom Shop has various branches around the country, visit their website and Facebook page to stay up to date about their latest promotions.
Wordsmith and marketer by day, Natasha is your go-to girl on all things beauty, travel and family. This mommy to two loves her cheese, a fab read and crooning to Ping Fong (don't we all?). Natasha also heads Communications at Expatgiving and helps volunteers find their dream non-profit role! Reach her at email or via her Instagram @sonattymama
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